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Advice needed please :)

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woodndesign:

Hi Philip,  I liked the look of the K10 on the Axminster stand at Daventy last year, they said to have the K10 for the AWVSL Midi-lathe, (which I'd been looking at, as the wife had expressed an interest in turning herself, but their show price was dearer than from the shop) as the K10 takes all the 100m range of jaws, it's compact and light weight, but not in it's holding power, and cuts down on overhang.
They've since had a deal on K10 and I was going to get one to replacement the wife's super precision chuck which came with the M900 for that reason, I'd have her chuck and change the back plate to fit my Mystro, so I'd have 2 chucks...   :)..  the only thing that was wrong with that..  no not the wife..   there is a differance in the chuck key squares, with my 1996 model and the 2006...     ???...  so I'd not have just the one key for both.. but mess with 2 and not have the right one at the time, so it didn't come about..   ???...  or was I looking at it wrong and it wouldn't have been a problem..

Regards.      David

Katchin:
ok, so axminster will not be getting anymore AWVSL1000 lathe's in until April at the earliest, so i'll have to look for something else at a similar price, maybe upto £350 ish, any suggestions? Are charnwood lathes any good, I was looking at http://www.poolewood.co.uk/acatalog/Charnwood_W813_Woodturning_Lathe.html

Andy Coates:
Most of these lathes are essentially the same machine but re-badged for different brandnames. Sometimes you may find that the castings are cleaned up better on one brand as opposed to another, or, and this is not visually apparent, the bearings (for instance) may be of a lesser quality, or the switches Etc. But the machine is probably manufactured in the same Chinese factory and simply sprayed a different colour and fitted to a slightly altered spec. So...essentially not a bad machine I would imagine, and probably no different to the old Yellow (Perform brand) Axminster version which I once owned. It was a good machine within its natural limitations, and I used to destruction levels and never destroyed it. In fact, another turner still uses it years afterwards.

And the advantage of a new lathe, is the guarantee. If it does fail you're covered.

One last thing about this type of lathe...

the variable speed system is similar to the old DAF gear box system; a series of split pulleys that spread and contract to effect speed change. You MUST push the handle back down to the slowest setting BEFORE you turn the lathe off. And this means every time you switch the lathe off...checking how the shape looks? Speed down lathe off. Checking for sanding marks? Speed down lathe off.

If you don't it will put a lot of strain on the motor and pulleys and they will fail eventually. It can a pain remembering to do it, but it's well worth developing the habit.

I hope this helps

Andy

Katchin:
If i were to get the K10 chuck, which jaws would you advise to start with?

Andy Coates:
I use "c" jaws for (approx) 80% of everthing I do. I have five or six super precision chucks, each with different jaw sets, but the C chuck is most often on the lathe. My little Axminster M330 has a K10 on it, and that has only ever had C jaws on it.

Gripper jaws are an advantage if you plan to turn a lot of wet wood, but if you are likely to be using more seasoned wood then C jaws would be my choice. Learn to cut your tennons correctly - right diameter, depth, dovetail and slight concave on the base and you won't have a problem with anything within the capacity of your lathe.

good luck with the purchase.

Andy

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