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Silly newby questions.... Sorry!

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arcos:
So, as you know I am not that experienced and a question I have had in my head for a while but not really been able to formulate it properly is...

I have a log, for example, that is 5" diameter max... The log is NOT uniformly round and when measured across from a different side is only 4" across. When cutting a piece off the log to turn how long should I cut the piece for turning?

I am assuming that if the length is too long then I will be turning a lot of waste. If the length is too short then I will be turning a bowl that is less than is possible maximum size?

Does that make sense to anyone  ???

Oh, I have just thought of another question....

I have a tree that, at the lower end has a 'splayed' out profile, with a few remains of cut branches etc etc... So, in essence, its an 'odd' shape.

I could just try and turn it in the 'normal way and spend some considerable time making shavings and dust to end up with a bowl.

How would you deal with something like this? Is there something more interesting that I could try to do? Is there a 'clever' way of dealing with something like this?

Thanks for your help in advance!

BrianH:
Hi Arc, me again
Firstly there is no such thing as a silly newby question, only one that the rest of us may have forgotten that we used to ask....if you see what I mean.
You don't make it clear but sound like you are trying to make endgrain bowls. Nothing wrong with that but side grain is more usual because that makes a better job of displaying the inherant grain pattern. It also gives you the chance to dump the log's pithe, which is the cause of almost all movement and splitting problems.
My advice is to saw the log lengthwise through the pith, better still, if the log is big enough, make a cut each side of the pithe, removing it completely. The slice removed can then be cut again and used as two smaller blanks while disposing of the pithe completly.
You now have two potential bowl blanks and yet another choice to make. If you insist on getting as big a bowl as possible cut the outide of the bowl so that it follows the curve of the bark. If, however, your log has pretty heartwood you will probably want to turn your bowl from the log with it's rim facing the bark. This will leave a smaller bowl but with the prettiness displayed across the floor of the piece rather than as two half moons on the rim.
Hope that helps a bit
All the best
Brian

ru55ell1:
Sounds about right Brian, if I get holf of a log I usually try to saw its length to about 2 - 2.5 inches longerr than the diameter, then slice down the middle and wet / rough turn the wood or wax the ends and dry it for later use. The extra length allows for any checking at the ends when drying the wood.

arcos:
Hey! Thanks for the advice!

Yes appreciate the silly question comment  ;)

However, I'm NOT turning end grain bowls!

You see, asking the question is more difficult than the answer!

I am going to mount the cut piece 'side on' and turn side grain.

Obviously the length of the raw piece is going to be longer than the diameter of the log, particularly as the diameter is 'variable!

I guess my question is how long should I cut the piece I want to turn so that I don't spend too much time on taking excess away.

Is there a 'formula'? Diameter is 4" minimum so that length should be 5"? Hmmm still not sure I am asking the question the right way!

BrianH:
There is no need for the the raw blank to be longer than the diameter unless you are allowing for movement while the piece is drying prior to re-turning, as Russell has described.
To get rid of the excess in a hurry you might remove the corners on bandsaw or 'chew' them away with a chainsaw or carving disc in an angle grinder.... but be damn careful and keep your other hand the other side of the headstock....a slip is easy and an amputation rather permanent!
All the best
Brian

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