General Category > General Discussion
Drilling holes...
woodndesign:
--- Quote from: bodrighywood on March 13, 2013, 01:16:29 PM ---Other option for a lamp not using any drills(remembered from my school days LOL) is to get your spindle and cut in half. Score a groove down the centre on both pieces and clamp and glue back up. Turn between centres aligned on the holes at each end.
Hope that makes sense.
Pete
--- End quote ---
Acros, has no bandsaw and he'll likely be using a branch for the piece. the challenge is how long is the bit and how far could you drill if the piece was centered in your chuck, you could get round the drive side of things, it's a cup centre for the tailstock, you really need a long hole boring set.
Cheers David
arcos:
Yes, no band saw and will be using a 'nearly' straight branch :-[
As this is not going to be much taller than 7 inches I figure rounding first then drilling.
Trying to scrimp on hard earned cash if I went for a jacobs chuck then it could double up for pens when I get round to it?
It all seems to be about swallowing up cash at the moment! :'(
Bryan Milham:
Just a thought...
We discussed the why's and wherefores for the use of inserts in candlesticks and tea-light holders.
But as a turner you should get someone qualified to install any wiring into a lamp.
Of course I understand the 'local' mentality that exists where you live, the man that can does! But if it's you that installs it, please be over cautious and even exessive with the use of cable clamps etc., as you don't want someone coming back due to something comming loose and an accident having occured!
arcos:
Yes indeed you are absolutely right dr4g0nfly
woodndesign:
--- Quote from: arcos on March 13, 2013, 02:06:57 PM ---Yes, no band saw and will be using a 'nearly' straight branch :-[
As this is not going to be much taller than 7 inches I figure rounding first then drilling.
Trying to scrimp on hard earned cash if I went for a jacobs chuck then it could double up for pens when I get round to it?
It all seems to be about swallowing up cash at the moment! :'(
--- End quote ---
Hi Acros, just a link reference the parts which make it possible for long hole boring ... http://www.axminster.co.uk/long-hole-boring-dept208171_pg1/ ... also look up Record Power, drop down WW Machine, clip Woodturning, bottom of page, Lathe Access, then 1 1/4" x 8, 5th down CWA131-2MT if your morse No 2 tapers, or 3/4" x 16 for morse No 1 ... for complete kit option.
Something you could try, away round it, as you're turning to a round first, if the drill you have will drill through from both ends, have the blank long enough to turn a tenon each end to fit your chuck, use the live center in the tailstock to locate and align it in the chuck and tighten well, use a very slow speed and great care you could drill part way, then do the same the reverse to drill from other end and fingers XXXX a through hole, then even with the correct system some have gone wrong...
Then turn a drive as a taper or pin to fit the hole as a friction drive, the live center will support the hole the other end and away you go with the shaping, remember you've to turn off the tenons each end, unless one is needed or refined to fit a base.
A real important thing with spindle work is what is called the Kiss Test ... NO NOT THAT ... the drive center and live center should have the points in alighment when the tailstock is brought up to meet with the drive, as the bed of the lathe and or the tailstock may not slide tight or machine spot on, you should check for tailstock bore and quil alighment, that is the same test with quil fully in and then extended.
Lamps and Candle safety ... we'll be back in the Dark Age again before long ... ;D ...
Cheers David
A .. PS ..
To aid with a straight hole, bring the toolrest in at the end of the blank set so it alighs with the bed bar/rail and set for height with the center mark, with clearance to drill, so you've a guide that you're straight each time.
Cheers
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