Drilling holes...

[arcos]

Ok, so I want to drill a hole STRAIGHT!

Knowing my hand drilling skills that just ain't gonna happen!

Don't own a drill press NOR a jacobs chuck...

Any other suggestions?

(I can already hear go buy a jacobs chuck you tight @rse!)

[Bryan Milham]

What is it you want to drill a hole in.

Centered on a turning?

Something off the lathe?

Is it a one off or will it be repeated (that size) many times?

Do you have the drill Bit already?

For example, if you have the bit and it's not too large a size, and you want to run it down the center of a turning while held on the lathe, you can hold in a pair of Mole Grips. A starting dimple turned in the end of wood and by holding the bit in place and pushing in (and pulling out to  clear the wood shavings - often) a hole can be drilled quite redily.

[arcos]

It's a hole centered on a turning although it could be done off lathe I guess pre turning.

Already have the drill bit.

I am looking at turning a lamp and obviously need to feed a cable through it. As its not a tall lamp I guess it could be done on the lathe with mole grips. I'm just not sure that I can get the hole centered properly that way.

As I am also thinking about starting pens then perhaps the jacobs chuck is inevitable?

[Bryan Milham]

Ah, more info...

Lamps are normally drilled on the lathe. Using a Long Hole boring system (Look up Gun Drill) and a hollow Live Centre (It will have a hole all the way throigh it)

Pen's - I don't do them but from what I've seen, the blanks are drilled on a Drill Press.

[bodrighywood]

Other option for a lamp not using any drills(remembered from my school days LOL) is to get your spindle and cut in half. Score a groove down the centre on both pieces and clamp and glue back up. Turn between centres aligned on the holes at each end.
Hope that makes sense.

Pete

[woodndesign]

Other option for a lamp not using any drills(remembered from my school days LOL) is to get your spindle and cut in half. Score a groove down the centre on both pieces and clamp and glue back up. Turn between centres aligned on the holes at each end.
Hope that makes sense.

Pete

Acros, has no bandsaw and he'll likely be using a branch for the piece. the challenge is how long is the bit and how far could you drill if the piece was centered in your chuck, you could get round the drive side of things, it's a cup centre for the tailstock, you really need a long hole boring set.

Cheers     David

[arcos]

Yes, no band saw and will be using a 'nearly' straight branch 

As this is not going to be much taller than 7 inches I figure rounding first then drilling.

Trying to scrimp on hard earned cash if I went for a jacobs chuck then it could double up for pens when I get round to it?

It all seems to be about swallowing up cash at the moment! 

[Bryan Milham]

Just a thought...

We discussed the why's and wherefores for the use of inserts in candlesticks and tea-light holders.

But as a turner you should get someone qualified to install any wiring into a lamp.

Of course I understand the 'local' mentality that exists where you live, the man that can does! But if it's you that installs it, please be over cautious and even exessive with the use of cable clamps etc., as you don't want someone coming back due to something comming loose and an accident having occured!

[arcos]

Yes indeed you are absolutely right dr4g0nfly

[woodndesign]

Yes, no band saw and will be using a 'nearly' straight branch  

As this is not going to be much taller than 7 inches I figure rounding first then drilling.

Trying to scrimp on hard earned cash if I went for a jacobs chuck then it could double up for pens when I get round to it?

It all seems to be about swallowing up cash at the moment!  

Hi Acros, just a link reference the parts which make it possible for long hole boring ...  http://www.axminster.co.uk/long-hole-boring-dept208171_pg1/ ... also look up Record Power, drop down WW Machine, clip Woodturning, bottom of page, Lathe Access, then 1 1/4" x 8,  5th down CWA131-2MT if your morse No 2 tapers, or 3/4" x 16 for morse No 1 ... for complete kit option.

Something you could try, away round it, as you're turning to a round first, if the drill you have will drill through from both ends, have the blank long enough to turn a tenon each end to fit your chuck, use the live center in the tailstock to locate and align it in the chuck and tighten well, use a very slow speed and great care you could drill part way, then do the same the reverse to drill from other end and fingers XXXX a through hole, then even with the correct system some have gone wrong...

Then turn a drive as a taper or pin to fit the hole as a friction drive, the live center will support the hole the other end and away you go with the shaping, remember you've to turn off the tenons each end, unless one is needed or refined to fit a base.

A real important thing with spindle work is what is called the Kiss Test ... NO NOT THAT ... the drive center and live center should have the points in alighment when the tailstock is brought up to meet with the drive, as the bed of the lathe and or the tailstock may not slide tight or machine spot on, you should check for tailstock bore and quil alighment, that is the same test with quil fully in and then extended.

Lamps and Candle safety ...  we'll be back in the Dark Age again before long ...     ...

Cheers     David

A ..  PS ..

To aid with a straight hole, bring the toolrest in at the end of the blank set so it alighs with the bed bar/rail and set for height with the center mark, with clearance to drill, so you've a guide that you're straight each time.

Cheers

[PC]

If your blank is only 7" in depth then there is another alternative to the drill bit/chuck approach.  Try 'drilling' with a narrow spindle gouge which has a swept back profile.

If you position your toolrest at right angles to the axis which allows the point of the tool to contact right on the centre - position the flute at 8 o'clock to 2 o'clock and gently push into the turning wood.  Don't push forward until you are sure that it is drilling centrally (it will wobbleotherwise). You can drill to quite a depth this way as long as you remove the tool regularly and clear the shavings.  The diameter of the hole will, of course, be determined by the width of the tool but a 3/8" spindle gouge will have the stability to go that far.  I've not tried one smaller but as long as there is little clearance in the diameter you should have the support to go that far.

Best of luck
Peter