Myrtle Hollow Form with blackwood finial

[Clavico]

7 1/2" x 3 1/2"

It is finished with renaissance wax.

This is an experimental finial as not to copy other's forms.

C & C welcome

[georg]

      Like the orientation of the grain , Perhaps the bass of the finial could be thinned down a little
     to help it sit better.   other than that a well turned,  well finished  and in balance piece 
                                                                                                                                     
      well done
      Tony and Diane

[Clavico]

Hello Tony and Diane,

Thanks for the comments and I agree with your comment about the base of the finial. It is a bit too thick.

Best,

Robert

[Les Symonds]

Hi Robert...I second what Tony and Dianne have said, especially about the thickness of the base of the finial. There's a trend in the American forum to inset the base of the finial into the top of the HF, so that the two blend together in one continuous line....I suspect that it would work well with this piece.

Cheers...Les

[Bryan Milham]

Robert,

The grain in the Myrtle is beautiful, you've brought it out wonderfully.

As it's been noted the finial is not quite right. There is a trick to tall finials of this type, the transitions need to be very sharp. The radiused curves you have at the thin areas between the sections are what lets it down the most. That and the bead could have been more spherical.

But that does not detract from the effort you've put into achieving a fine finish and balance looking form.

[The Bowler Hatted Turner]

Robert, I echo the comments made but feel that the detail below the bead is wrong, I admire you for not wanting to copy other peoples finials but sometimes a shape is just right whoever turned it first (or wrong as the case may be).
   You could lighten the finial by piercing it as that may help.

[Clavico]

Thanks to all for your comments and ideas. I'll incorporate them in the next piece with finial.


Robert

[Derek]

Great piece very well turned. I find finials are so hard to get right personally I like thinner finials so I think it is down to whoever is viewing them whether they are to thin or fat.

[woodndesign]

Hi Robert, just from the thumbprint picture it looks right, without opening the image, then it's incredable. The experimental finial works, it's good to differ, and as for the Myrtle, it is stunning.

Cheers  David

[Bryan Milham]

Derek,

hoping I'm not stealing the thread. There are many sorts of finials, from short squat ones (lid knobs) to tall and ridiculously thin ones.

As a guide;

It must suit the piece, e.g. Tall and thin is no good as a knob that will be regularly used, it will be too easily broken.

It must balance the piece, in the first instance look to the 'Rule of Thirds' for size/height, and

Consider the width dimensions in proportion to the main piece of work as well as the overall shape of the finial.

And most importantly, all rules can be broken, look at some of Andy Coate's postings and what he's used as lid finials, or the chilli or bamboo ones of Mark Sanger as a start.

[Derek]

Derek,

hoping I'm not stealing the thread. There are many sorts of finials, from short squat ones (lid knobs) to tall and ridiculously thin ones.

As a guide;

It must suit the piece, e.g. Tall and thin is no good as a knob that will be regularly used, it will be too easily broken.

It must balance the piece, in the first instance look to the 'Rule of Thirds' for size/height, and

Consider the width dimensions in proportion to the main piece of work as well as the overall shape of the finial.

And most importantly, all rules can be broken, look at some of Andy Coate's postings and what he's used as lid finials, or the chilli or bamboo ones of Mark Sanger as a start.

I think I did not write that very well I should have put this "type of finial" I sometimes forget that finials cover a wide range of(for want of a another word) handle/decoration.

So please accept my apologies for the miss understanding