Author Topic: N/E Yew bowl  (Read 2818 times)

Offline Les Symonds

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N/E Yew bowl
« on: April 19, 2015, 06:02:35 AM »
This one really tested me. I can't remember where I got the blank/log from, but it clearly old and very dry. It didn't cut very well and gave lots of dust, but my main problem was that the wings flexed when I cut them and I just couldn't stop getting bad concentric rings on the inside when I was hollowing. I'm putting it down to my lack of finesse with my tool tehnique....I really do need to get some professional training to help me to resolve that. Anyway, out came the Proxxon with a sanding wheel on it, followed by 30mm sanding pads, followed by hand sanding along the grain (which wasn't exactly easy to follow).

It's a little over 12" in length and is finished with micro crystaline wax.







C&C always welcome....especially about tool technique.  Les
« Last Edit: April 19, 2015, 06:05:11 AM by gwyntog »
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Offline edbanger

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Re: N/E Yew bowl
« Reply #1 on: April 19, 2015, 07:16:07 AM »
Well Les it looks like it was worth the effort this is one very nice looking bowl.

A very good turner at our club use a thick heavy scraper when he get's this sort of problem.

I personally think that the rings are cause by too much bevel rub, I think that when something is flexing we try to hold the tool in contact with the surface so push a bit harder which causes the problem. What I've done in the passed when I had this was slowed the speed down and then glided the cutting tip around with the bevel really not touching the surface taking several cuts where the same amount of wood could be removed in one cut.

I'm looking forward to see how our pro's tackle this problem.

Ed

Offline Bryan Milham

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Re: N/E Yew bowl
« Reply #2 on: April 19, 2015, 08:11:08 AM »
I know I will be vilified for this but I have a pair of sailing gloves. Fingerless and kevlar palms.

I wear one on my left hand to support thin work that wants to bounce or vibrate. However, looking at the holes and bark in this piece I'm not sure I'd use my method on this bowl.

Hard work yes, but it certainly paid off well, great looking piece.
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Offline Graham

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Re: N/E Yew bowl
« Reply #3 on: April 19, 2015, 08:44:01 AM »
I cannot offer any advice Les, I wouldn't know how to deal with it but whatever you did was well worth the effort. Its gorgeous.
Regards
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Offline malcy

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Re: N/E Yew bowl
« Reply #4 on: April 19, 2015, 09:48:18 AM »
Looks good to me, however you achieved the result. Well done. Malcolm.

Offline julcle

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Re: N/E Yew bowl
« Reply #5 on: April 19, 2015, 10:46:48 AM »
Hi Les, Nice looking piece I must say and well done. I went on an AWGB training day with Mark Hancock just before Christmas last year called From Log to Bowl and I must say that his tuition would have catered for this type of bowl perfectly and I notice that he is doing the same course again this year, may be worth looking at. Basically after mounting the blank the way you want it you will start at the very furthest point from the chuck after profiling the outer shape and turn down to thickness and finish in about 1" sections using the bulk of the blank as support gradually working down to the foot. This way you don't get the vibration from turning a very thin walled bowl and ours was turned to about 1.5mm not to see how thin we could go or to produce a finished bowl but just to get used to the principle of what we were doing. It was a very long day, 9am to 6:30pm but worth every minute IMHO.  Julian
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Offline GBF

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Re: N/E Yew bowl
« Reply #6 on: April 20, 2015, 07:13:00 AM »
Very nice Les it will be interesting to see how this sells in your shop.

Regards George
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Offline Les Symonds

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Re: N/E Yew bowl
« Reply #7 on: April 20, 2015, 08:21:32 AM »
....I personally think that the rings are cause by too much bevel rub, I think that when something is flexing we try to hold the tool in contact with the surface so push a bit harder which causes the problem. What I've done in the passed when I had this was slowed the speed down and then glided the cutting tip around with the bevel really not touching the surface taking several cuts where the same amount of wood could be removed in one cut....Ed
I think you're onto something, there, and thanks for the comments....I really need to get some proper tuition so that i can learn these techniques.

I know I will be vilified for this but I have a pair of sailing gloves. Fingerless and kevlar palms.

I wear one on my left hand to support thin work that wants to bounce or vibrate. However, looking at the holes and bark in this piece I'm not sure I'd use my method on this bowl.

It's a fine technique in my book....I do that frequently with those trumpet-shaped thin-walled bowls that I make.....but as you say, it would be useless on a bowl like this. Even if it were possible to do it without breaking a finger, the tap-tap-tap as the bowl revolves would set up a vibration, countering the technique.

... I went on an AWGB training day with Mark Hancock just before Christmas last year called From Log to Bowl and I must say that his tuition would have catered for this type of bowl perfectly and I notice that he is doing the same course again this year, may be worth looking at. Basically after mounting the blank the way you want it you will start at the very furthest point from the chuck after profiling the outer shape and turn down to thickness and finish in about 1" sections using the bulk of the blank as support gradually working down to the foot....Julian

Cheers, Julian....I was due to go on that course, but the problems with the neck injury stopped me from doing anything for much more than an hour at a time. I'll see when the course is running, next.

Very nice Les it will be interesting to see how this sells in your shop....Regards George

Indeed it will, George. I thought that some of my bowls would be a bit too off-the-wall for Bala, but I've been surprised at how well they've sold.....so, fingers crossed!


Thanks all, for the kind comments and helpful suggestions.....Les
Education is important, but wood turning is importanter.