Author Topic: End Grain Hollow form in Wych Elm  (Read 1646 times)

Offline Nick Simpson

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End Grain Hollow form in Wych Elm
« on: November 19, 2015, 11:40:40 AM »
I had to travel to Ullapool to find this piece. It is 22.5 x 5.8 cm end grain Wych Elm.
There is none of this wood available in my area. I am grateful to Mark Sutton for directing me to Alec Mutch near Ullapool. What a nice man. Sometimes you meet new people and just wish you had met them sooner; Alec is just that man.

I wanted to show as much of the pattern as possible so chose a flattish hollow form. I've little experience with this form and no previous experience with flat end grain HFs, so welcome any constructive comments. I did think about a lid and finial but decided that it would detract from the fantastic natural patterns. Wall thickness is 10 - 15mm.  I was frightened to go too thin with this wood in end grain . It can be seen to be checking around the knot close to the opening. The spalted section was very punky and would not take a scraper without chunks falling out despite a soak in thin CA glue.



Constructive comments to help with more of this will be gratefully received
Regards
Nick
See me at Boglecraft  https://www.Boglecraft.co.uk

Tom Sherman

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Re: End Grain Hollow form in Wych Elm
« Reply #1 on: November 19, 2015, 12:27:19 PM »
Nick, I have heard of folks using a mixture of 50/50 white glue (Elmers here in the states) and brushing it on to the punky areas with good success, I have never tried it myself. I have used very sharp tools to cut with light cuts not scrape with varying degrees of success.

Offline Lazurus

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Re: End Grain Hollow form in Wych Elm
« Reply #2 on: November 19, 2015, 12:29:59 PM »
That is a difficult shape to undercut inside, I like the form but feel the wood was not very sympathetic to work with, knot and punky patch to cope with.
Living and working on the Norfolk Broads

Offline Dave Atkinson

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Re: End Grain Hollow form in Wych Elm
« Reply #3 on: November 19, 2015, 01:42:38 PM »
Hello Nick

I like the form, finish and timber.  If I'm being really picky there seems to be a tool mark around both the neck and the foot.  And also just inside on the base it looks a bit uneven. (told you I was picky!!)

I have a swept back 5/8" bowl gouge which I hone and then take a cut with the edge of the wing at around 45 degrees.  It's a shearing cut and is sometimes helpful when the timber has a tendency to tear out.

I've also found a dose of 60/80 grit helps with spalted areas  :o :o

Cheers Dave