General Category > General Discussion
deep sanding.
crazylegs:
Both I initially sanded with the lathe running to get rid of most marks working through the grits the sanded as best as I could with the grain. I just can't get down the bottom to get rid of the last few. It is not bad but I want better.
Bryan Milham:
I'll try to remember to take a photo and describe one of my sanding adaptors tomorrow, you might find it interesting or a start to design something for yourself.
Woodcrafts:
I have seen several turners use a squash ball glued on the end of a dowel. I made my own version using PU glue to both stick it there and expand to fill the hollow. If you want a larger version, use a tennis ball. Cover the ball with stips of male Velcro strip and you've got a sanding ball on which you can fix velcro backed abrasive. And as things wear out, the male strips can be replaced.
Wood spinner:
You could try one of these with some foam / velcro on the handle
stick the blade in a drill chuck and away you go :)
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LONG-REACH-300MM-X-2-POZIDRIV-BLADE-CRV-SCREWDRIVER-ELECTRICAL-PLUMBER/274106953005?hash=item3fd20c2d2d:g:B8wAAOSwijBd267D
Bryan Milham:
Okay, photos taken, lets see if I can explain these and how they work.
They can be made any length, mine vary between 5" to 7" long, one for bottom work, one for side work. They both have a medium density urethane type foam on them as a backing and that is covered in the 'Hook' part from a 2" Hook & Loop (Velcro).
The Side Sander uses 'Loop' backed abrasive paper and it must overlap itself, or it will catch an end and pull itself off of the jig.
The End Sander uses standard 2" sanding disks.
Using them means they do the rotation in the chuck and you move the work in question, so don't run them too fast and keep the work moving. It also means if you have a problem with tear out, you can work that area more and not have to sand the whole internal circumference.
Any questions, please ask
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