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Hello - looking for advice on durable finish for pear wood

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Bryan Milham:
Steve, Pear was used historically as it does not split in the presence of saliva/moisture.

It is also the wood used in Mouth Organs for the very same reason.

Paul Hannaby:

--- Quote from: dr4g0nfly on March 29, 2021, 09:50:46 PM ---I would not have used Boiled Linseed Oil. It soaks into the wood and dries, that's what the boiled part of the name indicates, its not boiled at all but contained metallised driers. Great for a waterproof coat on Tool Handles and Cricket bats but it does not harden the way you want.

I would have gone for Hard Wax Oil, it dries by polymerisation, forming a hard outer coat.

The same can be achieved by Danish Oil and Finishing Oil but more coats would be needed.

--- End quote ---

Traditionally, boiled linseed oil was dried, hence the name. Boiling the oil caused oxidation which promted drying. Now some manufacturers add driers etc. but there are still some sources of boiled linseed oil which is exatly that and contains no metallic driers. I use one as a salad bowl finish and it's also food safe, which it wouldn't be if it had the metals in.

Bill21:
I believe Turner Robin Wood used to use raw linseed oil on his bowls etc.

https://www.dictum.com/en/oils-dbf/ra-linolja-organic-swedish-linseed-oil-raw-1-l-705354

Percy:
Raw linseed oil would work well. I use loads of it, and get it here -https://thelinseedfarm.co.uk/buy/organic-linseed-flaxseed-oil
Takes a little longer to harden then the boiled stuff, but is much nicer to work with

Bill21:
They have lots on Amazon, as cheap as £11.99 a Litre. I think I’ll try a small bottle.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=Flax+seed+oil&ref=nb_sb_noss_2

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