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Wet or dry sanding ?

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Dancie:
Recently I carried out a full deep clean of my garage workshop.

On the upper shelves, which I’ve sort of ignored, there was a layer of sawdust, not at Quentin Crisp levels but enough to be annoying.

I do wear a respirator and when sanding I have an extractor hose close to the object.

My question is about wet sanding, I’ve tried it previously but I didn’t find it as effective as dry sanding.

Are there any tips you can give me please, does the oil on the abrasive effect the wax you may use as a final coating, is there any preferred oil, does anyone agree with me that dry sanding is more effective or is it about the same or even if wet sanding is preferred?

Bill21:
I’ve not tried wet sanding so interested to see the response.

otterbank:
I believe lemon oil is used as it is more compatibility with other finishes. I’ve just used Danish oil as that’s the finish I use anyway.
I’ve also wet sanded with water if turning wet timber. Obviously need to make sure all electrics are protected. Mick O’Donnell showed it well in one of his videos. I don’t do it a lot but of the two I prefer  water. It is easier to wash out the abrasive and doesn’t end up in such a sticky slurry.
Michael

BrianH:
In my world that 'Sticky slurry' is exactly what you are looking for. I cant use cellulose so I oil finish everything. I normally sand dry down to 180 before oiling and sanding again, while wet. I rarely feel the need to go beyond 320 or 400 grit and always slow the lathe between each grit landing up at walking pace.
That slurry is a mixture of oil and sanding dust and the slow speed/fine grit drives it into the nooks and crannies of the timber leaving a silky smooth result. When dry the danish oil can be overcoated with wax if a shinier finish is required.
Brian

otterbank:
Brian, I agree the oil slurry helps with the finish of the timber. I just found it a bit messy in general. Both water and oil sanding will keep the dust down though.
Michael

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