Finishing oil

[GBF]

What finishing oil do you use and why.

Regards George

[Philip Greenwood]

Hi George

I used to use Chestnut until a while a go, but changed to Rustin's due to this being Food Safe as well as Toy Safe, Chestnut is only Toy safe.
This is used if I want a more gloss finish on my items, but I use Chestnut Food Safe oil in I want a matt finish.

Philip

[Dave Brookes]

If it's not for food use, I tend to use Organoil.  It gives a fine satin finish when used as a slurry with 600 grit wet & dry and also dries to give a fairly hard surface - it smells nice as well.

Dave

[John D Smith]

 Hi George,
                 I have not been doing much turning over the last couple of years when I was I didn't get on with Danish Oil I found not using it very often it   

went off,I have used Chestnut Food Safe Oil,Orange Oil,Liberon Finishing Oil and the last time I used any it was the Treatex oil .

                                                                   Regards John

[seventhdevil]

i use danish oil for my skittles and balls. i buy 2.5ltr tins of it from suffolk pigments but they had trouble with their supplier and i found a tin of blackfriars for only £30, not bad for 5 litres...


i also use danish for bowl turning and furniture as it's very versatile i find.

[Bryan Milham]

All sorts depending on what I'm doing.

Danish is my main oil, from a couple of coats as protection all the way up to a deep shine that take a couple of weeks to achieve.

But Lemon oil for part turned wet wood or to put something back into scorched work.
Hard Wax Oil/Organoil for a fast applied and hard finish some small things I make need.
Food safe oil speaks for itself.

I've got Finishing Oil, but have yet to work out what its good for that Danish cannot do (ideas anyone)

It's not an oil but I use Meths to wipe my timber and see what the grain will look like, it does not raise the grain like water, I also use it to thin Spirit stains or as an overwipe to get a smooth covering.

[GBF]

Interesting Bryan I use very similar to you.
Wood that is turned wet and finished I use about 5 coats of lemon oil then when they dry about 3 coats of chestnut finishing oil.
if it is turned from dry I put on about 5 coats of Chestnut finishing oil.
I am now trying Danish oil over lemon oil on pieces that were turned wet to a finish.
Yesterday I ordered some Hard wax oil and will give it a try as It might be quicker once the pieces have dried or if using dry wood.
Does the Danish oil darken the wood and does it have a gloss finish.
As you use the hard wax oil Bryan please tell me a bit about it.

Regards George

[Lazurus]

Danish oil every time for me, easy to apply, great coverage and depending on number of coats gives from a matt to a gloss finish.

[GBF]

Danish oil every time for me, easy to apply, great coverage and depending on number of coats gives from a matt to a gloss finish.

Have you tried other Oils?

Regards George

[Lazurus]

Danish oil every time for me, easy to apply, great coverage and depending on number of coats gives from a matt to a gloss finish.

Have you tried other Oils?

Regards George

Yes George I have a few others "on me shelf", however I still revert to Danish in 90% of my work, unless it needs to be "something" friendly, I hate having to finish finishes and some require buffing, wet sanding or just do not please the eye.

I am always open to suggestions though, we are always learning.

[Bryan Milham]

George,

hard wax oil has a couple of problems, that once understood are easily overcome. It's very thick, about the same as golden syrup and about as sticky.

1. Applying it needs a small brush, I've never successfully managed to use it with a cloth.

2. It cannot be placed onto a surface wet. I normally hang items to dry or if used on the outside of a bowl, then have to place the bowl upside-down onto a stand onto the inner surface.

I particularly like it for scorched forms and as I've brought a couple to the club in the past you'll of seen them, even if not knowing the finish.

[Eric Harvey]

I use lemon oil and Danish oil mainly,or just a wax coating.

[ken rodgers]

Occasionally I use Danish oil or hard wax oil.
I only buy the smallest of tins as I found the Danish oil goes off once opened.
I found that the hard wax oil takes ages to harden during the winter months.

I now use Lemon oil for most of my turning especially burrs as I do not require a gloss finish - sometimes I will buff using wax paste.
The Lemon oil has the advantage that numerous coats can be applied in a short time span and penetrates to a good depth.
If a gloss finish is wanted then I use finishing oil minimum of 3 coating followed by a wax paste buffing
Regards
Ken

[Mark Sanger]

Rustins Danish Oil as it has the food safe cert and it gives me the option to have a satin to gloss finish depending upon the no of applications. 

[Mark Hancock]

Rustins Danish Oil for over 26 years simply because I haven't found anything to beat it.