Pete ,I have turned a fair bit of it and it seems to attract interest and sells OK !! Firstly I would strip the bark off as the sticky resin is in this and the cambium layer and not in the wood as such , although the wood can be very wet it turns much nicer when green/ part dry than when dry / seasoned . Orientation of the blank to get the knots in the best position takes a bit of thought . If turning a bowl I am sure you are aware that you will be turning it end grain , this is OK whilst roughing it out , it is not that easy getting a good finish off the tool on the inside when dry , but it does sand easy , also there is not a lot of distortion whilst drying and it does not crack whilst drying as readily as other woods ( beech, sycamore , oak etc ) . One way of getting a bowl to look good is turn the inside shape first , and stopping when the knots appear to radiate from the centre , also MP has a large pith which I usually plug it with a pale wood or piece of MP . For hollow forms just go ahead from green , the knots look better ( I think ) on the upper half of the form , also the knots although harder than the rest of the wood have not given me any problem in turning or hollowing . There is a guy in Cornwall called David Trewin who is always after it and turns a lot of it ..... hope this helps .. Terry ..
