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Drying boxwood

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Les Symonds:
I've been given a boxwood log. It's about 3ft long and between 3" and 6" across, but it isn't round in section. Neither is it straight; in fact, it's bent and twisted and has big nodules, the size of apples, on one of the bends. in some places it is round in section, in other places it is quite oval and one part is 'D' shaped in section.
It's been cut for several years and has been lying in a log-pile, so there are minor splits in the surface and the core is quite damp. I cut about 4" off the worst end and the cracks seem to run most of the way through it, but it certainly gets better the further into I go.
It has lots of discolouration - which is good - and there appears to be a spalting line running through the pith from one side to another, and down most of the length. I tried turning the end that I cut off and it turned beautifully...great long shavings and a really smooth finish....I even oiled it and was impressed with the result.
What should I do next....I don't want to spoil it by working it too soon?

All advise gratefully accepted.

Les

Les Symonds:
I've just tried to add an image to this follow-up....hope it works. It shows the nodules on the log and the piece cut from the end after having a go at turning, sanding and oiling it. Hope it helps.
Les

Bryan Milham:
Les,

I'd love to tell you how to season Boxwood. I'm afraid I don't know.

I bought a long piece at Westonbirt last year and have stood it in the a cool corner of my workshop (hoping gravity assists in the draw-down of free water in it). Will it work - only time will tell.

The only thing I can say is when I've seen it for sale, it's normally in saleable lengths with waxed ends. So my only suggestion would be to seal it, and leave it for a couple of years with your fingers crossed.

Les Symonds:
Thanks, Brian. That's an interesting point, about the draw-down of free-water in the wood. I'm guessing that the spalt line that runs across and along the log, possibly represents the level of free-water trapped in it as it was lying under the wood-pile, half sunk into the ground.

I've read that old tins of paint can be used for sealing the end grain; any idea if this is feasible, or would it be wiser to invest in some proper wax?

Les

ravenge:
Yes old tins of emulsion paint (latex based) cann be used to seal the end grain, I have done it many times when I have run out of endseal and still had wood to seal (colour does not matter ;-) infact I turned a bowl yesterday that had been sealed with it (no splits or checking at all)

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