Drying boxwood

[Les Symonds]

I've been given a boxwood log. It's about 3ft long and between 3" and 6" across, but it isn't round in section. Neither is it straight; in fact, it's bent and twisted and has big nodules, the size of apples, on one of the bends. in some places it is round in section, in other places it is quite oval and one part is 'D' shaped in section.
It's been cut for several years and has been lying in a log-pile, so there are minor splits in the surface and the core is quite damp. I cut about 4" off the worst end and the cracks seem to run most of the way through it, but it certainly gets better the further into I go.
It has lots of discolouration - which is good - and there appears to be a spalting line running through the pith from one side to another, and down most of the length. I tried turning the end that I cut off and it turned beautifully...great long shavings and a really smooth finish....I even oiled it and was impressed with the result.
What should I do next....I don't want to spoil it by working it too soon?

All advise gratefully accepted.

Les

[Les Symonds]

I've just tried to add an image to this follow-up....hope it works. It shows the nodules on the log and the piece cut from the end after having a go at turning, sanding and oiling it. Hope it helps.
Les

[Bryan Milham]

Les,

I'd love to tell you how to season Boxwood. I'm afraid I don't know.

I bought a long piece at Westonbirt last year and have stood it in the a cool corner of my workshop (hoping gravity assists in the draw-down of free water in it). Will it work - only time will tell.

The only thing I can say is when I've seen it for sale, it's normally in saleable lengths with waxed ends. So my only suggestion would be to seal it, and leave it for a couple of years with your fingers crossed.

[Les Symonds]

Thanks, Brian. That's an interesting point, about the draw-down of free-water in the wood. I'm guessing that the spalt line that runs across and along the log, possibly represents the level of free-water trapped in it as it was lying under the wood-pile, half sunk into the ground.

I've read that old tins of paint can be used for sealing the end grain; any idea if this is feasible, or would it be wiser to invest in some proper wax?

Les

[ravenge]

Yes old tins of emulsion paint (latex based) cann be used to seal the end grain, I have done it many times when I have run out of endseal and still had wood to seal (colour does not matter ;-) infact I turned a bowl yesterday that had been sealed with it (no splits or checking at all)

[Bryan Milham]

Les,

Old Gloss Paint can be used but ensure you cover all the grain. PVA Glue, I use on part-turned items. You can buy a specailist product called 'End-Seal', or as you note in your post - wax.

Wax is wax.

I buy the large type Church candles from charity shops and car boot sales (by far the cheapest way) and I have an old meat roasting tray I melt them down into.

About the only 3 bit's of advice I can offer here are;

• Heat to at least 140ºC. The wax needs to set 'transparent' to be effective, and
• Don't do it in the kitchen without SWMBO's permission (I have an old 2 burner camping stove.)
• Don't over heat the wax as it can burst into flame.

I have heard a good idea is to use an old Deep Fat (chip) Fryer as it has a thermostat fitted, but I have not been lucky enough to come by one yet.

[Les Symonds]

That's great advise, thanks both....guess I know what I'll be doing this weekend!

Les

[malcy]

Box wood is renowned for splitting on drying. I too am not sure the best way to season it but would suggest end sealing and drying slowly. I've jusy purchased a bottle of Chestnut brand end seal. This is a wax in emulsion form and is applied with a brush. Much easier and safer than melting candle wax, but if you have the means that is ok too. Malcolm.

[Derwent Woodturning club]

.....  I buy the large type Church candles from charity shops and car boot sales (by far the cheapest way) and I have an old meat roasting tray I melt them down into.

.....I have heard a good idea is to use an old Deep Fat (chip) Fryer as it has a thermostat fitted, but I have not been lucky enough to come by one yet.....

Hope you don't mind me butting in on this post but just noticed this one regarding wax sealing. Two tips:-
1. Have a chat with your local church as many of them throw out the 'stumps' of candles when they have burnt down to the cup. There's usually an inch or so left, and if the candle's one of the 'big' ones, that's still quite a bit of wax. I returned a wooden collection bowl as a 'thank you' and now have a steady supply of wax.
2. Tesco, and no doubt other supermarkets, sell very cheap 'budget' deep fat fryers. Cheap and cheerful, but temperature controlled so great for sealing logs. And when you are finished, just let the wax set and you can put the whole lot back on the shelf. 'New' lumps of wax get thrown on top, ready for the next 'melt'. And you won't be in trouble with the 'other half' for using the best pan . Just remember to remove the remains of the wicks occasionally. One last thing, set the temperature at its lowest when you first switch on, to give time for the solid wax to melt, otherwise it can overheat a pocket of wax round the element. Once it's all liquid, set the temp to around 140, as recommended by 'Dragonfly', and you are ready to go.

[Les Symonds]

many thanks for all the advise....much appreciated.
Les

[Bryan Milham]

Beings Derwent has mentioned how to get old (real) church candles, it might be worth noting that by law they must contain a percentage of Beeswax. I can't remember what the % is but it's a reasonable quantity.

This makes the wax seal slightly more plyable should the wood want to move.