General Category > General Discussion
So what am I doing wrong?
Andy Coates:
Hello John,
in truth you can put a long grind on any spindle or bowl gouge, at least any made by one of the main tool makers. I can't speak for the cheap and cheerful non-name tools.
The key is the 2" extension, and the angle you set the adjustable holder at. I haven't used the 447 for a number of years now, so can't remember the setting, but I seem to remember it has graduated settings.
I'll take a few photographs of my spindle and bowl gouges tomorrow and post here. They may give a clue to at least my varient...there are many others.
Katchin:
cheers, that may help a lot
Dave Atkinson:
Hello John
You've received lots of good advice. I would also recommend you buy Keith Rowley's book - Woodturning - A Foundation Course. I think most woodturners have that on the shelf.
And don't worry - I doubt there is a turner living that hasn't been down the same route as you. We've all over heated chisels, and wasted steel trying to get an edge (well I did anyway ::). One bit of advice i was given when i started was to get a piece of round steel similar in size to your gouge - an old bolt will do and use that to practice your grinding technique. It's a particularly useful tip if you are grinding freehand.
also keep a pot of water nearby to cool the gouge after a moment or two of sharpening - don't get it too hot and quench it, just use it to take out the heat before it goes blue.
Good luck
Cheers Dave
myatt1972:
Thanks for posting your questions John, Im also on the steep learning curve and I'm finding this thread very helpfull.
Andy Coates:
Sorry for the delay...but here are the pics...
19mm bowl gouge with swept back grind...
And a pair of 3/8 spindle gouges one conventional and one swept back...
The spindle has a flat sweep because that's how I use it, but it could equally have a more rounded edge similar to the bowl gouge.
The trick for me is to concentrate on the nose first - get the nose rounded (not pointed as happens when you concentrate on the sweep), and then sweep back the wings, blending into the nose as you go.
I set the jig to the angle on the nose and the sweep comes naturally. You may have to play about until you get a shape you like and can use, but you will get there.
If you have an un-ground, un-used the fresh tool, try mounting it in the jig with the grinder switched off and set it until you can replicate the shape.
If you want to know the ins and outs of tool geometry you can't do better than Mike Darlows book.
But remember that there are no real "perfect" grinds that suit everybody. Once you find your own you'll know it.
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