Hardening wood

[Les Symonds]

I've got a few lumps on the go that have the occasional soft spot in them, where the spalting has gone a little too far, as well as sreas of a few square inches where the wood is quite wormy and tearing out when I cut them. I've never used products like Ronseal Wood Hardener, so would appreciate any help before I buy some in. Any guidance on how to use it and how effective it is would be very helpful.

Thanks...Les

[bodrighywood]

I find the sanding sealer can work on softer wood and failing that, iff it is really worth saving CA glue, the thinnest you can get works well. Coat with SS first if using the glue as it darkens the wood.  Never used the proprietary hardeners myself so can't speak for them.

Pete

[John]

I use Danish oil, Give the wood a very good soak, leaves for 48hours to really dry. I've used this method on several spalted woods, It usually works OK.
John

[Derek]

I have just completed a piece of spalted beech and had a little soft spot in it. this piece came from a larger lump of wood which I have turned a few bowls from it

Like previous posters I have used Sander sealer but only after I have got the shape very near what I want then apply a good coat all over paying special attention to the soft spot next give you tools a good sharpening and gentle cuts to finish this normally leaves a great surface to sand and finish.

[The Bowler Hatted Turner]

Les regarding the wood hardener, I use when I have particularly soft wood for pen blanks( I tend not to make many pens) My good lady let me have an old Kilner jar. I dropped the blanks in and filled it with hardener until the wood was covered. Watch it bubble! after a couple of days the bubbling will have stopped so remove the wood and leave it to dry. You will find that once dry it is remarkably hard and should turn very well indeed. Wear a mask 'cos its horrible stuff.
Polish as normal.

[Les Symonds]

Les regarding the wood hardener, I use when I have particularly soft wood for pen blanks( I tend not to make many pens) My good lady let me have an old Kilner jar. I dropped the blanks in and filled it with hardener until the wood was covered. Watch it bubble! after a couple of days the bubbling will have stopped so remove the wood and leave it to dry. You will find that once dry it is remarkably hard and should turn very well indeed. Wear a mask 'cos its horrible stuff.
Polish as normal.

Sounds like a good system for small components, but the bowl I turning now is 10"x4". Mooks like it'll be a good wash with sealer.

Les

[edbanger]

I've painted Ronseal wood harder on spalted beech (at lest I think that it's beech) left it for a few days to dry and it seem to work great.

Ed

[Les Symonds]

I've painted Ronseal wood harder on spalted beech (at lest I think that it's beech) left it for a few days to dry and it seem to work great.

Ed

Cheers Ed...good to hear that it worked for you. I reckon that I need to get soem and just give it a go.

By the way; yep it's beech, and quite  a nice piece at that. Beech can be a bit bland but I love the figured, spalted stuff.

Les