Waxing cut wood

[MCB]

I  was recently given a beech tree by my neighbour so, having cut it into handleable lengths, dipped each cut end into molten wax to seal them.

Unfortunately, the wax doesn't seem attached to the wood and just peels off

Any suggestions please as to what I  may be doing wrong?

With best wishes and thanks. 
 
MC

[Les Symonds]

Hi there...I had the same problem recently, but it was noticeable that only the logs that had surface moisture repelled the wax.....in future, when waxing, cover the logs the day before so that you've a dry surface to work with.

Hope this helps...Les

[MCB]

..... only the logs that had surface moisture repelled the wax.....in future, when waxing, cover the logs the day before so that you've a dry surface to work with.

I  was cutting the logs and waxing them immediately. It was a dry day (we've NOT had a lot of those lately!)

I  was heating the wax in a pan on a camping stove outdoors  - to minimise the potential problems caused by fire or spills!

Very many thanks

MC

[edbanger]

Why not forget the wax and get a trade 5lt tub of pva, just paint that on it will do the same job 3.76 http://www.thesitebox.com/everbuild-products/universal-pva-bond-501-500ml.aspx

Ed

[MCB]

Why not forget the wax and get a trade 5lt tub of pva, just paint that on it will do the same job

Because the wax is  free!

MC

[Bellringer75]

I had this problem with some laburnum the other day it had be out side for a while and when i waxed the end it all peeled off then when i cut the bit i left in the work shop over night it was fine and stuck on so must have been surface dampness   

[burywoodturners]

The wax needs to be hot enough to boil the sap from the first two mm or so. I find brushing it on will leave it white and not sticking to the wood, so I use a hot air paint stripper to melt it in, just play the air stream on the wax until it looks 'wet'

I use a redundant chip fryer to melt my wax - no flame there, we are eating healthily now!

On the other hand edbanger has the right idea, use pva or any spare paint.

Ron

[TWiG]

I only use PVA as well !! A lot of my wood is biggish lumps ( 20 - 30 kg ) of green wood for making fairly large hollow forms and most of these I wrap in pallet wrap ( cling film ) to keep them moist until I get round to using them or to induce spalting , just turned a few horse chestnut burr that I wrapped about 10 months ago , still moist and nicely spalted . When I rough turn bowls I often paint the outside -end grain with PVA, depending on state of the wood ( green or damp ) species , and weather / time of year .

[Bryan Milham]

One important thing to remember when using Paraffin wax recovered from old candles (like I do) is that the wax contains Sterin - a stiffening compound.

So it's best if you add a small percentage of beeswax to overcome this.

If you don't it can become brittle and crack on your timber, letting it dry wrong and cause cracking.

[The Bowler Hatted Turner]

Not that I have done it but what about adding some linseed oil to the wax?

[Turners cabin]

For sealing timber for non comertal use pva or old gloss paint will work well you will always find the wax will peal of fresh logs due to the amount of free water in the log and also if you use pva make sure you seal them some wear protected from the frost for the first few days till it has a chance to fully cure or it will turn white and will be next to useless
hope this helps

[Derek]

I must confess to using slightly watered down pva and also emulsion paint which for some reason I have plenty of. Both seem to work equally well