Beall Wood Buffing System

[SalineMan]

Greetings all.

Looking at the Beall buffing system. Has anyone used one? What is the consensus of opinion on them? It seems quite expensive for what it is, or is that just me?

Love to hear.

[woodndesign]

Well ask question, one I've looked in too, as well as others who have posted before.

Another Supplier is Chestnut: http://www.chestnutproducts.co.uk/results.php?cat=Buffing%20System .. Their a Corporate Member, but don't read as giving a discount.

I'm found from John Berkeley a very local Supplier to me and if I work out just what is needed would be reasonable priced with buying just what was required to makeup a kit. http://www.thepolishingshop.co.uk/acatalog/Polishing_Kits.html ..  http://www.thepolishingshop.co.uk/acatalog/Menzerna-Polishing-Kits-for-Horn-and-Woods.html ... http://www.thepolishingshop.co.uk/acatalog/Polishing_Mops.html .. Would be interesting the views of anybody who's used this Supplier.

Cheers  David

[Les Symonds]

I have the Chestnut system and find it excellent, but have not used the Beall system. Having just had a quick look at the Beall, I can't see that it's any different to the Chestnut.

Furthermore, I bought a couple of 8" mops from the lead the David gave me, but they are not as soft as the Chestnut mops, so tend to scrub a little too hard at the finish coat of wax, which gives a good sating finish, but i find it almost impossible to get a full gloss with them.

Les

[SalineMan]

Thanks guys.

Will have to cogitate!!

Looked at the Beall on Toolpost, only £45. My wee heart leaped, then I went to checkout, over £60 after VAT and carriage!!!!!

Taken note of the comments re The Polishing Shop.

Looked at the Chestnut system, £55 plus carriage, puts it up there with the Beall.

Also want Cole Jaws, and Vac pump for a vac chuck I want to build, a Steb Centre.......................lottery, anyone??

[Les Symonds]

Looked at the Beall on Toolpost, only £45. My wee heart leaped, then I went to checkout, over £60 after VAT and carriage!!!!!
....
Looked at the Chestnut system, £55 plus carriage, puts it up there with the Beall.
...

One other thing to consider is that you will really need a finishing mop for each of the different finishes that you use.  The Chestnut system gives you the Tripoli, White Diamond and Carnauba wax, but once the cotton wheels are each used for one of these waxes, you have a problem if you want to buff something that's been finished with microcrystaline wax, or Danish oil....it just gets more expensive!

Les

[Paul Hannaby]

I have a set of the Beal bowl buffs. I bought those because they can double up as buffs for other things whereas the standard buffs can't be used easily with smaller bowls.

I have also used the Chestnut buffing system.

Both do what they say they do. The process and compounds for each are similar.

I have also bought individual buffing wheels for other purposes. These can be obtained relatively cheaply if you shop around.

[The Bowler Hatted Turner]

I made up my own system from the local motorbike shop. These bikers like to have shiny chrome so I built up a collection of mops and polishes that suited my needs. Not sure how it compares with the complete systems on sale but I have never had complaints. The tool man down the market sells the polishes and cutting compounds, if yours doesn't ask him to stock it as all the club members will then buy it. Sometimes you just need to think outside of the box to fins solutions, things like my abrasives I buy from the local tool hire company who also now stock the screws for cole jaws and chuck jaws. I am in the process of convincing them to stock friction polish at a competitive price just so that my club members don't have so far to go to get it all.
Its surprising what you can get if you ask for it.

[Les Symonds]

.... whereas the standard buffs can't be used easily with smaller bowls.

Hi Paul....something I've never really got an answer to, and it is relevant to this thread, is how to get a good finish inside a small bowl, especially one that has an undercut rim. Most of the small mops that I've bought, be they hemi-spherical or cylindrical, are much harder than the soft cotton wheel. It sounds as though your Beall system has something relevant!

Les

[Graham]

One other thing to consider is that you will really need a finishing mop for each of the different finishes that you use.  The Chestnut system gives you the Tripoli, White Diamond and Carnauba wax, but once the cotton wheels are each used for one of these waxes, you have a problem if you want to buff something that's been finished with microcrystaline wax, or Danish oil....it just gets more expensive!

Les

Not sure I understand.
I brought the Chestnut system at Yandles open weekend a couple of weeks ago and was talking to Terry for a while. I got the impression the Tripoli, White Diamond and Carnauba wax were for using on top of oil finishes like Danish oil or hard wax oil.
Though I can see why you would want a special one for buffing up MC wax.

[woodndesign]

I have the Chestnut system and find it excellent, but have not used the Beall system. Having just had a quick look at the Beall, I can't see that it's any different to the Chestnut.

Furthermore, I bought a couple of 8" mops from the lead the David gave me, but they are not as soft as the Chestnut mops, so tend to scrub a little too hard at the finish coat of wax, which gives a good sating finish, but i find it almost impossible to get a full gloss with them.

Les

Hi Les, As you are able to make the comparison with the Chestnut system, with the size being the same, is it the construction etc.. the quality of the cotton weave/stitch causing the problem.  I'm interested in why and to which wheel/s it was you'd obtained with the view it would be as much help to others as to myself with purchasing from the Company, as for me I'd be none the wiser as to whether I'd achieved the very best finish, not overly sure if I'd like to go as far as full glossy finish, depends on the piece no doubt.

Cheers  David

[Les Symonds]

I got the impression the Tripoli, White Diamond and Carnauba wax were for using on top of oil finishes like Danish oil or hard wax oil.

Hi Graham...Using wax on top of oil is an acceptable technique, especially if you have rippled or feathered grain that you want to accentuate. The oil helps to show off the features of the grain and needs to be completely dry before you start building wax up on top of it. However, it is in no way a necessity to use oil as a base-coat. The 3-wheel buffing systems are perfectly capable of building a deep finish from bare wood up to any level of gloss that you wish to achieve.

Les

[Les Symonds]

Hi Les, As you are able to make the comparison with the Chestnut system, with the size being the same, is it the construction etc.. the quality of the cotton weave/stitch causing the problem. 

Hi David....basically, the cheaper mops are much firmer than the Chestnut ones. I'll run off a couple of samples later today and photograph them.

Les

[woodndesign]

Hi Les, As you are able to make the comparison with the Chestnut system, with the size being the same, is it the construction etc.. the quality of the cotton weave/stitch causing the problem. 

Hi David....basically, the cheaper mops are much firmer than the Chestnut ones. I'll run off a couple of samples later today and photograph them.

Les

Hi Les, Had not wished for you to go into a hole load of trouble on this question, Thank you for taking the time.

I currently know with finishing as I've done for many years without such a system, the timber, conditions, lack of sealing and even to rush the job can have an effect with some finishes.

I've read recently of someone who uses as they put it 'their buffed over wet oil finish' will try to locate the post to make sure of the fact .. could be sometime before the post. 

I'm not sure if its the mops are cheap with regards to quality, as I understand it as they manufacture themselves for Industry, could mainly be for metals/alloys, so built to last, who'd want them to fall apart in a short time with constant use.  They seem to have a large range of cleaning and finishing products, most by brand name are cheaper that some other retail outlet... My only interest is in whether by building a system or buying the kit they offer would it be worth the investment .. I firmly believe in you get what you pay for .. we all these days like not to spend more than needed.

Cheers Dewi

[Les Symonds]

I've just made a small trinket box and polished it with carnauba, using the 'Polishing shop' mop for the bottom, and the 'Chestnut' mop for the lid. The photos really don't do justice to the actual difference in finish; the lid has a much better shine and you will notice that a powdery wax residue has collected in the grooves on the bottom - I later repolished this with the Chestnut mop, which raised the shine and cleaned out the groove.


From the next 2 photos you'll see how much finer the Chestnut mop is...it's on the right....

firstly, the face of the mops...


...and the edges


To be fair to the Polishing Shop, they list in their catalogue a finer mop (WDR Quality) than the one that I bought (G Quality), but it was out of stock at the time that I bought, and is still out of stock. However, their on-line catalogue states that the one that I bought (G Quality) gives a superfine finish!

As for the price, the G Quality (and the WDR, if ever it's in stock) is £5.88 for an 8" x 1" and the Chestnut mop is usually listed at about double that price.

Les

[woodndesign]

Many thanks on that Les, There appears a vast difference in the mops as you've stated.

I'd wonder as on the Polishing shop mop, it has a lot of long ends, could these cause the problem, that the main mop surface is not making a proper contact.

 I'm Sure I'd seen Les Thorne who demos for Terry an Chestnut at most Events, dress a mop before he used it, may have been to clean/cutback the edge .. forget the exact purpose ..  .. with a hacksaw blade and the teeth flat across the mop.

I'm sure for all who have any form of system, you could substantiate the true in this fact.

Cheers  Dewi