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Routing On a Lathe

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Katchin:
So I quite like the idea of trying some routing. And as I have only ever seen this at a demo and it was done on the lathe, maybe I should start here?  

My questions would be, which router? and how do I attach the router to the lathe?

The lathe I have is This one

theblindwoodturner:
Hi. I was just listening to your posting on this rather intriguing subject.

I have some background in ornamental turning and decorative works, so routing spindles is one of those jobs.

Thanks for the link to your lathe. this helps a lot.

Sadly, your lathe won't handle lathe routing as the lathe is too fast on it's lowest speed. You need to have a lathe which can run betwen 40 and 60 rpm for cutting. also attachments for routing on the lathe are specialist products designed for high spec lathes.

Trend used to make the router lathe which was a nice product.

If you're serious about lathe routing and want to do decorative posts. there are two systems available as direct router lathes. One is from Killinger in Germany. For that kind of product, please contact Phil Irons Woodturning and speak to phil. please be aware, the price is in the £1000 range or so. The other is a complete routing system which allows you to manufacture joints, etc as well as spindle routing.

Sorry, I can't think of the manufacturer off hand but there is again a UK importer for this.

Hope this helps.

lew

Katchin:
sorry, my post was very misleading, I do not know much about the subject. Whilst at a demo last month, the demonstrator used a router on a switched off lathe, just to take piece out of the blank at equal points for segmented turning.

He had roughed out a bowl shape, then took 6 pieces out of the edges of the bowl shape with a router that he fixed to the lathe, and glued in different wood.

theblindwoodturner:
yep.

I know what you mean now.

you would need a light weight router such as a trend T3, bosch palm router or similar as larger routers would be a bit weighty.

it's worth noting that you would need to lock the spindle of your lathe if routing a straight channel to cut out a piece. So effectively, you could use your lathe as a router lathe for cutting out parts.

I do two approaches to this work.

one method is to use a dedicated router lathe as I've mentioned earlier.

the 2nd is not using a router but instead using a die grinder with a 1/4in collet using a series of rotary burrs. it gives you freedom to cut out channels and profiles as well as sweeping into a cut etc.

if using a router, it's worth considering where you are cutting, how deep you wish to cut and where your router will be safest resting on the material. I'm not sure if there's any adaptive router accessories for lathe work. the only systems I know of are as mentioned above as well as production copy lathes, etc.

let me look into it for you and I'll drop you the info here.

cheers and have fun.

lew

Andy Coates:
Another option is to buy a compound table with a standard collar clamp to hold a T3-sixed router.

I have one that I bought at the same time as the Wiva 1200, and Toolpost sell them with a poly-carb plate fitted to the base for axfixing to the bed of the Wiva lathes. It came with the collar stand.

You could add a plate to the standard proxxon compound table so that the cutter was at centre height on the lathe. All you need then is a router...you might even pick up a decent second hand one at a boot sale.

This set up up only allows for straight cuts, and the winding backwards and forwards is not ideal, but it does work.

The other option is to fabricate a collar and base, and you can then use it almost freehand whilst sitting on the bed bars.

 

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