First question

[DaveH]

Just curiosity with this one. While walking the dogs in woodland (extensive) local to me, I noticed several fallen branches of a decent diameter.
Mostly beech, oak and sycamore which appear to have fallen a good while ago (I'm guessing over a year) but seem sound with no outward sign of decay.
There is also a good size fallen Birch but that has signs of decay and fungus attack.
Do you think it would be worth trying some sections of these ?
I also came across a very old looking and well weathered stump of some unidentifiable hardwood of a fairly easily movable size which I am tempted to investigate further.
Any opinions on the likely usefulness ?

Dave

[Bryan Milham]

No easy short answer to those questions.

There are two sorts of water in wood, the free water between the cells and the bound water in the cells.

Branchwood sat on the ground for any length of time the wood is likely to have absorbed ground water which will have made it soggy on the bottom side.

But it's free wood and turnable, just likely to split on you at a later date, but for practicing on, as long as you are careful, take precautions you should be okay. You might even get lucky and a nice bit of wood out of it.

Pete (bodrighywood) is our master at turning timber most of us would throw away.

The fallen birch will probably be spalted and they spalt fantastically, especially if it had a Polypore (Horseshoof) fungus on it before it fell.

If you have access to a chainsaw and are proficient with it, and you have permission, go for it.

[The Bowler Hatted Turner]

I think you should remember that the wood(trees) probably belongs to someone, I would seek permission first.

[Wood spinner]

As said above get permission first 

[Les Symonds]

Dave....I use a considerable amount of branchwood, all of which I sell as finished pieces. Once collected and back home, I coat the ends to inhibit moisture absorption from the end grain - this is essential if you wish to reduce/eliminate splitting. Any waterproof substance will do,  old paint is fine, but my preferred method is to use a cheap deep fat fryer that I bought in Lidl. I fill it with the stubs of old candles and switch it on to melt the wax, then dip the log ends into it, or use a cheap old paint brush to coat the ends of the larger logs.
Les

[bodrighywood]

A said, the wood belongs to whoever owns the wood, even wood you see by the roadside technically is owned so always make sure you have permission.
Having said that, if you are allowed to help yourself then most wood can be turned to some extent. If the wood is soggy the chances are that it will be really soft and light when dry and probably the least useful. Wood that has decay etc is worth cutting back to solid wood and seeing what you have, spalting is just decay and mould. Do be aware when turning this sort of wood that it can have worm, hidden cracks and splits etc so sue a slower speed and a mask at all times. As said at worst to is good for practicing on. Bit of luck you will find things like this hidden inside. (this is a work in progress mind not a completed piece LOL)
Pete

[DaveH]

Thanks for your answers, I am aware of the ownership aspect fully intend to seek permission before any cutting takes place.