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Tool handle ferrule

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thebowlerhattedturner:
Hello Nigel,
                I usually make the ferrule area parallel but make a very small chamfer on the end for a bit of lead in .When I use copper tube for ferrules I cut one end with a tube cutter and the other with a hacksaw. The tube cutter leaves a burr on the inside but the outside is quite tidy so I cut the end nearest the handle with the hacksaw to make a square fit. I don't sand the ferrule area but leave it with a chisel finish and a  (very) snug fit. A dot of superglue does not go amiss but you shouldn't really need it.I drill the hole for the tang in decreasing size (burning it on makes for a loose fit) and strike the end of the handle to drive the blade on. Don't stand the blade on the bench and hit the handle on(as I saw some one do) as you could damage the blade and split the handle. You could dot it with a nail or centre punch it needs be.
Regards
John BHT

Nige7:
Thank you to everybody. All the useful information I need. I hadn't thought about prick punching the ferrule to secure it, thanks Tony.

Nigel

hughie:
I turn with a slight taper, tap the ferrule of and pour CA into the small gap between the ferrule and the handle. Sometimes if the wood is very dry it will take a few goes at it to fill it. Never had one move or a problem and probably have 20 such handles on my tools

Nige7:
I thought I had left the part for the ferrule with plenty of diameter. The ferrule certainly took of shavings when I tapped it on. Two days indoors in the warm and the ferrule just drops off!!!  I expected the wood to shrink but certainly underestimated by how much :)
What have I learned?  To allow critical diameters to dry and shrink before turning for final fit.

I should have remembered this requirement as we did the same thing with the chair legs and stretchers on the chair making course we attended last year. Doh :)

Nige

John D Smith:
Hi Nige7, The main thing is we learn by our mistakes.Regards John :) :)

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