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The Bowler Hatted Turner:
Vestas the previous commtes are worth followingas both give good advice. Looking at the picture I can see screw holes that appear to be from a faceplate so I assume (assume makes an ass of U and me so I need to be careful)I assume that the face side has already been turned. If that is the case you may tru hot glueing the face side to a plywood faceplate and gently turning the split side down, the split or crack may well disappear but if not finish it anyway and then lace the crack up with wire or leather or even a nice piece of ribbon.

Vestas:
Thanks all
I initially put the face plate on the visible side but decided to change after the cracks appeared - I hedged my bets as to the best area to hollow out - resin it is ! I will order some - any suggestions to make and where from would be appreciated

Les Symonds:

--- Quote from: Vestas on April 27, 2019, 05:14:26 PM ---Thanks all
I initially put the face plate on the visible side but decided to change after the cracks appeared - I hedged my bets as to the best area to hollow out - resin it is ! I will order some - any suggestions to make and where from would be appreciated

--- End quote ---
I've been buying a make called 151 for a few years and have been very pleased with it. Once mixed, it stays open for about 5 minutes, which is plenty of time to add a filler and pack it into a crack. It dries fairly quickly, but the time is governed by environmental conditions, so you will need to do a test fill on something, but once dried it goes hard and cuts/sands back very well.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-PART-EPOXY-GLUE-ADHESIVE-TWIN-SYRINGE-CLEAR-STRONG-RESIN-PLASTIC-GLASS-METAL-/113680829141?var=&hash=item1a77e7cad5, Here's where I buy it, 6 tubes at a time, which gets the price right down.

Les

fuzzyturns:
Although all previous replies provide good advice on the subject of filling cracks and voids, on this occasion, and considering the timber is lime, I'd say put it in the bin.
Lime is a very soft wood, and almost all of your fillers will give you a much harder material in the crack. You will end up with a serious bouncing problem. In addition, the filler will create a weight distribution problem, which means you can't turn the speed up, and that'll probably make the bouncing worse. And as soon as you start to sand the stuff, the lime will sand a lot faster than the filler. Unless you have a seriously big lathe, and some very good turning skills, you are very unlikely to end up with a satisfactory result.

Bryan Milham:
I do agree with Fuzzy. If you are not confident, don't turn it.

Not saying you should throw or burn it though.

It can be put to one side for even quite a long period of time and you can come back to it when you feel you have the experience to deal with it.

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