Finishing options

[Vestas]

Hi all
Three months of turning and I’m loving it. The biggest issue I have is trying to obtain the “best” finish.
I’ve used cloth backed abrasive paper but now have moved to Abranet with 600 being the highest.
I’ve got Yorkshire grit too which helps with the final bit of surface prep. I keep heari
B of turners using 1200 grit - but of what? Paper - pads ? Can anyone tell me the best products they use please ?
Also Pete (twisted trees) generously gave me samples of a variety of polishes finishes etc - and I’ve accumulated a few from yandles axminster etc -I’m not sure which ones are best - I seem to keep getting small streaks in the finish
Also I’ve made up my own friction polish but wasn’t able to get hold of liquid shellac so bought French polish from B&Q which is pretty much total Shellac - anyone know where to get the “proper stuff”?

[JollyJim]

Hi....

Mainly, I use whatever is to hand.... I don't follow any specific procedure
but I normally always finish with wet and dry 400 grit then 600 and then 1200.
I buy these from Tool Station, they are £2.62 for a pack of 10 and they
have always done the job I ask of them as well as lasting really well.
I normally apply sanding sealer with the 1200 and it does a good job of
sanding as well as keeping the dust down.

Regarding polish, I've used Briwax clear for a long time and been more than
pleased. However, I've just got some Chestnut Polish which I have'nt tried yet.



Hope that helps, best wishes - Jim

[Vestas]

Thanks Jim
Do u wet the wet and dry?

[JollyJim]

Hiya,

Mostly not, but if I do, it's only the 1200 when I put
some sanding sealer on, which works quite well although, I guess
you could 'wet' the wet and dry on any grade with, maybe
burnishing cream or something similar. I'm really at the
end of my knowledge here, hopefully, someone with more
experience might add something....I'm always willing
to learn.

Hope all goes well - best wishes, Jim

[yashin57]

It really doesn't matter what grade of abrasive you use if you don't use it properly, There are countless turners who never go further than 240 grit - so I would suggest you spend lots of time practicing with the abrasives you opt for. After all, the abrasive is a cutting tool of sorts. A good piece of advice given to me is to hold the abrasive as lightly as possible, because pressing hard with it will only cause lines you will need to remove subsequently.

[Vestas]

Thanks guys
There is so much to learn!

[BrianH]

My advise would be to slow the lathe every time you change to a finer grade of abrasive and keep it moving in a different direction than that of travel. Personally I rarely go finer than 400 and use finishing oil to lubricate the finer grades.
Works for me......Hope that helps
Brian

[Vestas]

Many thanks

[The Bowler Hatted Turner]

Vestas finishing wood can be a real minefield with a plethora of different techniques. I endorse what yashin has said about learning how to abrade properly. Remember that all the time you are abrading you are creating friction therefore warming the timber up and some timbers don't like that!!
I tend only to use the abrasives on their own when sanding as by using oil to lubricate (although that is an accepted method)it then dictates the finish you use. On bowls and stuff like that I tend to sand to no finer than 400g and apply a sealer, cut back with wire wool and apply a paste wax or Melamine finish.
On small boxes and pieces with delicate finials I may well abrade to 1200g and apply a finish of somesort and then 50/50 mix of carnauba and beeswax buffed up.
Experimentation will yield the best results for you.

[bodrighywood]

|sk 10 turners a question and you will get 11 different answers LOL. seriously Johns last comment is the most valuable, experiment. Be aware of allergic proprties of oils etc and ( if you are like John and I) check out the basic, cheap alternatives as there are  lot of very costly variants that are just common products with a fancy name.

Pete

[hughie]

For me the method of sanding is as important as the brand. Bare in mind every species has its challenges and one size doesnt necessarily fit all.

So what I have found is the use of inertia sanders as opposed to power or hand sanding produces a consistent high degree of finish. I use them for both internal and external sanding. The random orbital action produces a repeatable surface finish generally higher than the grit being used

Some I have bought many I have made. The DIY are to meet various needs and conditions, generally internal. All told my collection probably is around 15-20 sanders.

From here I can launch into the various favoured finishes. This can vary  due to where the items is going etc.

[Vestas]

For me the method of sanding is as important as the brand. Bare in mind every species has its challenges and one size doesnt necessarily fit all.

So what I have found is the use of inertia sanders as opposed to power or hand sanding produces a consistent high degree of finish. I use them for both internal and external sanding. The random orbital action produces a repeatable surface finish generally higher than the grit being used

Some I have bought many I have made. The DIY are to meet various needs and conditions, generally internal. All told my collection probably is around 15-20 sanders.

Thanks for the advice
Can you recommend one to buy ? Are they Velcro backed discs ?
From here I can launch into the various favoured finishes. This can vary  due to where the items is going etc.

[willstewart]

unpowered orbital sanders are good - and I would not normally go below 400 grit.  But this does depend on the wood.  Very dense fine woods, like box for example, can benefit from a finer grit, leaving a shiny finish even without a coating.  But if you finish with wax this will fill in the remaining matt from 400 anyway.  A few woods and pewter need much finer finishing, as do acrylic surfaces (from CA glue finishes for example, common on pens) and these use fine pads to 12,000 - which you can get as a set.

[JollyJim]

Hi All,

I don't know what an unpowered orbital sander is. I'm guessing it's
just sandpaper on a wooden block....I'm quite prepared to
be wrong on this and look a total moron.......... perhaps someone
can enlighten me please, thanks

best wishes -  Jim

[Derek]

Inertia sanders work on the rotation of the turned piece. I have the Simon Hope system and find it very good most of the time as there have been times I needed a different approach