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Resin for cracks

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Maca:
Did a test bowl to see how it worked out with the aluminium powder.  The thin CA glue was quite difficult to use without one of those fine nozzles they sell so it went a bit messy but remounted it and sanded it back.  Think it worked out well enough to try some more (photo isn't great but you get the idea).  Thanks for the advice, got another aspect the bowls now.

bodrighywood:
The glue I buy here comes in bottles with sealed nozzles that you cut open to suit. It is industrial strength and comes in thin, medium and thick versions. I use thin for filling splits etc, thick for general adhesive work. Best I have yet to find. Also I have a few pieces that I glued up years ago that are still sound. Many CA glues become brittle after a while and fail if pressure is applied.

pete

hughie:
OK from my perspective, you  need to decide if you to hide or make it a feature. Me I always make them a feature because I'm lousy at trying to hide them.
 Resin has it merits as  do most ideas but much depends on the size of the crack and the type of timber your using.  Very small ie 1mm and down on hardwood I often use CA as the clear CA and the dark timber  will blend and largely disappear.
Fillers, well its up to your imagination. I have used ebony dust, metal powders, ground up shells from nuts,  pistachios shells work for me, coffee grounds used and unused, bark ground finely and on some big cracks loose small pieces of bark and so on.
Resin can be a challenge if timber in question moves a lot as the resin will eventually pull away. There used to be a  soft resin used as damp proofing in bathrooms it was ok. But technology has moved on and I dont see it for sale any more. I think Howards https://www.howardproducts.com.au/products.html  and  https://www.howardproducts.com/ used to have a soft resin designed for wood havent heard much about it lately

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