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Resin for cracks

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Twisted Trees:
As above really until the splits get to 6mm or bigger resin is a pain in the backside.

Most epoxy will get quite hot when curing, and will often shrink which is why the resins used in wood projects especially when used in thick layers are very expensive cold setting resin with minimal shrinkage.

Cherry moves and splits often, especially when cut into the end grain, I like to cut it thin and let it distort sometimes this can be disastrous or disappointing, but just sometimes it is wonderful... well I like it!

BUT I suspect from your pictures that those splits are not real or finished! they will be blocked by fibres which will stop the metal or glass dust from getting in neatly so you may have to scrape them a bit. Also if they haven't finished moving you may find there is a gap next to your filler in a week or two.

Cherry is a rewarding timber, smells great when you are cutting it distorts when put in a modern warm dry house and like oak it will often split part way through but maintain it's integrity.

Derek:
For fine splits, I use basically the same as Pete except I use the thin CA and apply that first then put powder on top then tip it out and repeat as i have had it where I tried the powder first and then the glue just sat on top and sealed the powder in when turning or sanding back the loose pwder came out.

bodrighywood:

--- Quote from: Derek on December 04, 2019, 10:28:35 AM ---For fine splits, I use basically the same as Pete except I use the thin CA and apply that first then put powder on top then tip it out and repeat as i have had it where I tried the powder first and then the glue just sat on top and sealed the powder in when turning or sanding back the loose pwder came out.

--- End quote ---

Agreed, if you completely fill the crack then add the glue it just hardens the top and can fall out hence the need to build up in layers. Not sure it matters whether you put glue or powder in first as long as it is layered. Same reason for using the really thin stuff as medium or thicker doesn't penetrate the poder. Avoid the shop stuff, very expensive and IME nowhere near as good as the industrial stuff.

Pete

John Plater:
Agreed, fine cracks can be dealt best with CA glue, do your own experiments but only after sealing the timber on either side of the crack so that the CA does not stain it. For bigger cracks and voids I came across a car body filler based on epoxy resin with fine glass fibre strands. Epoxy sticks to wood better than polyester resin and the glass fibre strands offer strength and gap filling advantages. I found black or with no colour which could be pigmented to suit.
ATB John

BrianH:
don't forget the wood may well continue to move around whatever solid filler you use and the piece may then crack up worse than when you started.
Brian

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