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Motor problems please help

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808raver:
Hi Paul
I'm sure it is a centrifugal switch, I can hear it disconnect as the motor slows, unfortunately I'm not good with electrics so the ammeter is out but are you saying the motor will run without the motor start capacitor connected? because that I can do lol   

808raver:
Hi Valkrider
I hope it is just the capacitor, nice and cheap to fix :) I have been looking up how old the table saw is, I can't find the exact date but I suspect 1940's, it has a checked plaque from 1955 by another company so I doubt that's the date of manufacture.
It is a " Parry and sons tool manufacturers" All the rulers, angal plates, and company names are on brass plates.
Other than the motor being a little laboured it all works like it should   

Duncan A:
Always worth fitting a new capacitor on an old motor, costs just a few quid.

However, I doubt that ST Amps is starting amps; it is more likely to be stator amps i.e. what is nowadays usually referred to as Full Load Current (FLC) - and in the case of your saw, continuously rated at 12A.
12A is about normal FLC for a single phase 230V motor but starting current could briefly be 6 to 8 times that i.e. 72 to 96A and that is almost certainly why you are blowing fuses. On my 2hp bandsaw I can get one start on a 13A fuse, but it blows upon a second attempt.
Install a proper 16A supply via  your consumer unit and a Schuko or Commando type plug and socket and you should be fine.
Your consumer unit takes Miniature Circuit Breakers (MCB), usually type B in a domestic setting. Some would recommend a type C MCB, as they are not so quick acting and deal better with the start current, but something like your saw would probably be OK on a type B.
Ask an electrician to wire it in properly, then you'll never have to worry again!
Duncan

Paul Hannaby:

--- Quote from: 808raver on April 25, 2021, 03:25:04 PM ---Hi Paul
I'm sure it is a centrifugal switch, I can hear it disconnect as the motor slows, unfortunately I'm not good with electrics so the ammeter is out but are you saying the motor will run without the motor start capacitor connected? because that I can do lol   

--- End quote ---

What I'm saying is that if the capacitor is faulty, the motor will do the same whether the capacitor is connected or not so you can use that as a test. The motor won't run well without a capacitor or with a faulty capacitor.

The Bowler Hatted Turner:
I agree with Duncan A's remarks. I have just had the workshop rewired and had a similar problem with my lathe so the electrician installed a type b or c in the new distribution board. His description was exactly what Duncan has just said. I have had no problems since.

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