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Wipe on Poly

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Bill21:
Easy application seems to be one advantage over using plain varnish. I think I’ll give it a try.

jay:
   Surly Danish oil is  a third oil based varnish , boiled linseed oil  and white spirit . Oil based poly is really a plastic version of oil varnish
     I often add a shot of Japan dryers  to kick it over faster and harder especially if I increase the proportion of the white spirit component 

Bill21:
The last time I used Danish Oil it took quite a while to dry. I get the impression wipe on Poly dries much quicker?

I’m not a fan of Danish Oil, I tend to use Finishing Oil, whatever that is!? ;D

jay:
   Just add some Japan to the danish oil and it will dry .Just be aware it contains cobalt so not good for food but so does some boiled linseed oil . It is no longer all boiled

Twisted Trees:

--- Quote from: Bill21 on January 17, 2022, 09:25:49 PM ---The last time I used Danish Oil it took quite a while to dry. I get the impression wipe on Poly dries much quicker?

I’m not a fan of Danish Oil, I tend to use Finishing Oil, whatever that is!? ;D

--- End quote ---

Terry at Chestnut calls his Tung + drying agents oil Finishing oil while Libron, Hampshire Sheen, etc. use Danish Oil as the name for the same product. Also the only product we in the UK would recognise as Danish Oil in the USA is Watco Butchers Block Oil, while the Danish oil is primarily Boiled Linseed Oil based, which as Jay says is not boiled anymore but chemical based.

There are more slight variations on finishes than there is space in my workshop or cash in my wallet! I like to keep it simple I have one food safe wax, and 2 food safe oils. I don't really care if I am making garden dibbers with food safe rated finish, and I have a wry smile about using food safe finish on Yew, bottom line is I have one drawer for finishes and other space is otherwise allocated.

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