General Category > General Discussion

True Grit / Sanding / Finishing

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GBF:
For most of the information you need

https://chestnutproducts.co.uk/

Regards George

Richard_C:
The chestnut site does have useful information, if you click on various options (perhaos not as intuitive as some sites) you get loads of helpful leaflets and 'finishing school' videos which are useful when you are starting out.

I rather like woodwax 22, it gives a very nice shine, a softer look than spray finishes but deep and rich.  I use it on things that will be looked at rather than regularly handled, and agree that microcrystalline is better for fingerprint protection.

The advantage of true grit and similar is the absence of dust as you do the final 'sanding', you can follow it with an oil or wax but I don't think its really practical to follow it with a spray or varnish.  Some say you can if you carefully clean the true grit carrier waxes off with spirit, but I'm not convinced, always risk of residue deep in the grain.  You might as well stick with conventional abrasive if that's your plan.

A lot of oils and some waxes cure over time, they might seem 'dry' after 10 minutes but they do harden some more in a few days.  If you can leave a few days between coats of (particularly) oil you will get better results and less chance of a horrid gloopy mess as 'coat 2' dissolves 'coat 1' .  Been there, done that :)

morpheus83uk:
Thank you all for your input I really appreciate it!

As it's probably going to be handled I will apply some microcrystalline on the top to give it a bit more of a shine and also a bit of protection. I will keep the wood wax for specifically decorative objects. How does it handle with small amounts of handling I assume it's fine? For example taking it out of a box and things like that? And I assume you can wipe the wood wax down to remove finger marks?

On the finishing school I didn't know that existed so I will go and check that out too!

Has anyone out anything over the chestnut finishing oil? If so what? I have found after the Harrogate show the 1000 grit Nyweb pads give a good smooth finish so I am unsure if another finish should be applied after such as one of the waxes? As I assume I would need to buff it off? But I have already removed the tenon on the bowl.

Thanks

James

Paul Hannaby:
You can't just wipe down the beeswax based wax finishes to remove finger marks because the cause of some of the marks is the removal of some of the wax by the fingers in contact with it. Beeswax has a fairly low melting point and heat from your hand can be enough to soften and remove some of the wax so after handling, the finish can be affected and would need re-waxing to restore it.

Microcrystalline wax, on the other hand, has a higher melting point and is unaffected by the heat from handling so the shine remains.

I stopped using any beeswax based finishes for things that were going to get a lot of handling many years ago for exactly this reason.

morpheus83uk:
Thanks Paul.

I am just trying to work out in my head now how woodwax22 would be useful for anything?

Thanks

James

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