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Help Required With Oil Finish On Oak Platter

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Duncan A:
I've just finished making a platter out of an "interesting" piece of oak. The end result is quite pleasing to my eyes, including as it does heartwood, sapwood, burrs, punky wood, bark inclusions and checks aplenty, but I'm having trouble getting an even finish with Chestnut Finishing Oil.
This is largely due to the varying absorbencies of the different parts of the platter, but also with capillary action lifting oil back to the surface through "eyes" and cracks.
Basically a mess. It's not too clear in the pictures but some areas are still matt, some have too heavy a coating of oil, some have blobs where the oil has pooled or risen back up, or come through a crack from the other side. All of this following three coats, lightly sanded in between, wiped off with a cloth a few minutes after application, in a warm indoor environment.
The oil is reasonably thin but it is several years old. I know, I know!
The platter is about 600mm along it's longest axis; top lip 450mm diameter. If necessary, I could mount it back on the lathe with a friction drive of some sort.

I would greatly appreciate any advice on how best to improve the finish.
   Sand back, start again with fresh oil?
   Leave to cure fully, sand back apply way on the main areas?
   Leave to cure fully, sand back and spray with lacquer?
   Giving up and crying is not an option!

Thanks in advance
Duncan

Wood spinner:
I would sand back and use a couple of coats of sanding sealer , Burnish with wood shavings in-between coats , Build up a sealing barrier before using  something like Danish oil , Leave each coat of Danish oil to dry then wipe off any excess , Polish then apply a wax over the top , Thats all I can suggest , Good luck , It deserves the extra effort as it is a niece turning  :)

John Peachey:

--- Quote from: Wood spinner on December 10, 2023, 03:50:49 PM ---I would sand back and use a couple of coats of sanding sealer , Burnish with wood shavings in-between coats , Build up a sealing barrier before using  something like Danish oil , Leave each coat of Danish oil to dry then wipe off any excess , Polish then apply a wax over the top , Thats all I can suggest , Good luck , It deserves the extra effort as it is a niece turning  :)

--- End quote ---

I would agree with most of this, apart from trying to put a wax polish on, as you are likely to get wax trapped in the crevices/gaps.

John

otterbank:
I would let that coat of oil dry and then sand it again, just go lightly on the softer parts. Buy new oil and apply sparingly.
I’ve found once my Danish oil gets to about six months old it’s not quite so reliable, I still use it but drying times vary.
The first coat that I flood on a burr or such like need to be wiped off quite a few times to clear the excess that leaks out of the knots and eyes.
That’s the way I deal with burrs or pieces like yours, many other ways to deal with it I imagine but that works for me.
Good luck
Michael

Duncan A:
Thanks for the advice gents.
Sounds like I'll be doing a fair bit of sanding!

Allen: I'll have to test compatibility between sanding sealer and the oil if I'm going to go down that route, but it's worth trying as it should even up absorbence of the oil between the various wood types. I didn't use wax in the first place because of all the crevices and gaps - picking out pieces of wax and cloth or paper didn't appeal, but I won't need to wax if the oil applies and dries evenly.

John: You're right about the wax, see my comments above.

Michael: Definitely seems like I should try fresh oil; possibly also try wiping off the surplus more thoroughly so there's less excess finding its way out. It was useful to hear that you've found a method that works for wood of this sort - it should be possible.

I'll sand back and try again with some fresh oil before trying the more radical approaches and will report back progress. Possibly not until after Christmas as I've plenty of other projects on at the moment.

Thanks again,
Duncan

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